Prickly Pets: Hedgehog Husbandry
By Rosie Smith
African pygmy hedgehogs became popular as exotic pets in the 1980s. Since then, interest in the species has grown alongside knowledge of their care requirements. It is generally agreed that the name “African pygmy hedgehog”, is a term used to describe a domesticated “four-toed hedgehog” (Atelerix albiventris). This is the smallest species within the Atelerix genus. Although, some argue that the African pygmy hedgehogs found in the pet trade today are a hybrid of Atelerix albiventris and Atelerix algerus, however, more research would be needed to prove this theory.
Following 40 years of domestication, the African pygmy hedgehog can be a friendly companion animal. They are popular in the US states where they are legal, across Europe, Russia, Asia (mainly Japan and Thailand) and of course, the UK. More domesticated animals typically show fewer defensive behaviours; with handling possible without the hedgehog curling into a defensive ball.
In order of popularity, the African pygmy hedgehog, long-eared hedgehog (Hemiechinus auratus), desert hedgehog (Paraechinus aethiopicus) and North African hedgehog (Atelerix algirus) are all kept privately in the UK. The lesser hedgehog tenrec (Echinops telfairi), greater hedgehog tenrec (Setifer setosus) and common tenrec (Tenrec ecaudatus) are also popular amongst hedgehog keepers. Despite not being genetically related to hedgehogs, their care needs are similar.
About the author
Rosie Smith is a teacher of Animal Science and Advanced Practitioner at Nottingham College. She is passionate about the role hedgehogs can play in the Animal Science Education Industry, their role as companion and hobby pets and their ability to engage the public in conservation initiatives. Rosie spent two years on The African Pygmy Hedgehog Club committee, has judged numerous hedgehog shows and has 9 years of experience keeping five species of hedgehog and three tenrec species. Rosie has one of the largest private collections of Long Eared Hedgehogs, as well as African Pygmy Hedgehogs, Desert Hedgehogs and a North African Hedgehog. Rosie has experience volunteering in 2 zoos and working within private animal education before she joined the team at Nottingham College.
Diet
All the African hedgehog species are opportunistic omnivores, with studies showing their diet is comprised of insects, bird eggs, small mammals, lizards, frogs and even plant matter on occasion. This can be simulated reasonably easily in captivity by providing a varied diet with plenty of live foods. As African pygmy hedgehogs are unable to break down cellulose, the feeding of plant matter (including grains and potatoes in commercial food), is not beneficial to the diet of captive hedgehogs. Small bird eggs such as quail and cooked chicken eggs are popular protein options. There is a widespread fear of feeding morio worms to hedgehogs because they can bite, however, all feeder species are enjoyed by hedgehogs and a varied diet is important. Even the use of very active insects, such as roaches and locusts, allows for enriching hunting and exercise behaviours.
Feeding commercial dog food has become popular amongst keepers. The high phosphorus content of meat can be balanced by calcium-supplemented, gut-loaded insects. However, hedgehogs do have small delicate teeth, so pinkie mice or the finely-ground commercial blocks (without visible bone/offal pieces) are more appealing to the hedgehogs.
The African Pygmy Hedgehog Club recommend feeding flaxseed/fish oil supplements 1-2 times a week as well as a mix of high-quality cat biscuits as a primary part of the hedgehog’s diet. Exotic vets prefer to recommend specialist insectivore foods, which can be high in fat. A high-protein diet can be damaging to a hedgehog’s delicate kidneys, and carbohydrates can result in obesity. Therefore, the benefits of feeding a small amount of kibble as part of a balanced and varied diet to maintain teeth and provide a less perishable food option must be carefully balanced by feeding a more natural diet of small whole prey, raw/cooked meats, insects and eggs.
Heating and Seasonality
Both the four-toed and long-eared hedgehogs are nocturnal. UV lighting and basking heat are not often utilised by these species in captivity, as they hide in burrows or hollows to avoid sunlight in the wild. Due to numerous years in captivity, the African pygmy hedgehog now struggles to tolerate temperature drops. If the keeper allows the animals to cool they will likely attempt to hibernate and cannot always be awakened. Therefore, most keepers opt for a 24-27°C constant temperature maintained by a ceramic heat emitter, guarded with a cage and on a pulse-proportional thermostat. Positioning this at one end of the enclosure allows the hedgehog to select its preferred temperature.
If either species curls into a ball and has a cold stomach or appears to have difficulty waking up at night, the temperature may be too cold. Also, if the animal is laying on its stomach with stretched-out legs (that many people on social media refer to as the “sploot”), it could be an indicator that the animal is overheating. With climate change bringing more unpredictable weather patterns, Some keepers provide cool tiles/chinchilla marbles in the summer to allow their hedgehogs to thermoregulate when the ambient temperature is high.
In the wild, long-eared hedgehogs, live as far East as Mongolia and will often hibernate in the cooler months. Decreasing temperatures to the low 20s for long-eared hedgehogs between November and February can encourage breeding in the spring. During times of cooler temperatures, the hedgehog’s appetite and activity levels will decrease. There is a fine balance between adjusting the temperature to decrease activity and inducing hibernation. The latter can be dangerous and therefore seasonal fluctuations should be reserved for the more experienced breeder.
Wild four-toed hedgehogs do not breed throughout winter, but their domesticated relatives, the “African pygmy hedgehog” have now adapted to breed all year. Therefore, they should not be exposed to temperature drops.
Exercise and Enrichment
The travelling distance of a wild four-toed hedgehog is around 300-500m per evening. The long-eared species have longer legs and a faster running pace and therefore may travel even further. Hedgehogs in large, naturalistic zoo exhibits can often be observed pacing in circles, as their naturalistic desire to run and forage is still present despite having consumed sufficient food. Therefore, most keepers opt to use a smooth, hole-free bucket wheel as running apparatus. For decades, hedgehog keepers have observed a calmer demeanour from pregnant and nursing mothers that have access to a wheel. These animals are less likely to destroy their litter. The benefits of having access to a “running wheel” have also been recorded in several other species including mice, frogs and even snails. Although this may not fit in with the traditional “natural aesthetic” of keepers wishing to provide a wild-type habitat, they are a valid option to provide physical exercise and improve the animals’ well-being. Larger hedgehog species such as the desert hedgehog and North African hedgehog also opt to use their wheels as enrichment. However, for these larger animals, a larger wheel should be provided. A desert hedgehog requires a wheel of at least 14-inch diameter, while a North African hedgehog would require a wheel of around 16 – 18-inch diameter to avoid spine curvature issues.
There are many other ways to provide enrichment to pet hedgehogs. Sand baths are popular and allow the animal to roll and exfoliate amongst the sand. Foraging trays can also be used. These are shallow trays with soil, leaves, edible herbs and live prey that provides smell enrichment and prompt natural hunting behaviours.
Tunnels and hides allow hedgehogs to enact natural hiding tendencies. A range of these throughout the enclosure can help the hedgehog to feel safe and allows them to nest in an area with the temperature they feel most comfortable in. Hedgehogs “anoint” by chewing unfamiliar smells, mixing these with spit, and covering themselves with this spit. This can be inconvenient and unhygienic if done with a pinkie or chick, however fresh food items such as strawberries, cooked sweet potato, fresh basil and mint and others can provide smell enrichment despite having little dietary benefit.
Handling and PPE
Handling blankets are the most used form of protection when manoeuvring hedgehogs. Scooping the animal up from underneath to support it and then allowing it to uncurl is the accepted method. Some hedgehogs will even approach their owner when spoken to. This is a good method of calming the animal, as their eyesight is poor. Protective gloves should be avoided as this will prevent the hedgehog from becoming familiar with the keeper’s smell which helps with bonding. Giving a hedgehog a smelly sock to keep is a common way to build up familiarity with its owner and they will chew and anoint with these thanks to their excellent sense of smell. There has even been one example of successful “clicker” training. African pygmy hedgehogs usually ball when startled. Some long-eared hedgehogs will curl, however, they have more of a tendency to charge at and bite a perceived threat. This means care must be taken in a walk-in enclosure as they will charge towards footwear. This difference in temperament makes the long-eared hedgehog a less popular companion animal, however, the naturalistic behaviours of "long-ears" make for a better zoological exhibit. Canon Hall’s nocturnal house allows for their long-eared hedgehogs to be observed daily, hunting and foraging. African pygmy and long-eared hedgehogs may be active during the day in captivity due to noise stimuli and its association with food. However, they are generally most active between 11pm and 4am.
Enclosures
Four-toed hedgehogs naturally live in the desert scrub habitat of North and Central Africa but can also be found in dried river valleys and forest edges, even venturing into settled areas. Long-eared hedgehogs also live across Asia and are found as far east as Mongolia. Their natural desert scrub habitat means that naturalistic enclosures are best to replicate these conditions. Despite their tendency to consume a large number of their custodians, bioactive enclosures have been used with success for both species. Zoos, such as Canon Hall Farm, have large, naturalistic enclosures which are easier to maintain without catering for custodians alongside the animal. Hedgehogs tend to defecate and urinate as they run, with their diet making daily cleaning essential. Wheels are popular amongst hobby keepers and often a litter tray is placed under the wheel to catch waste and allow for quicker maintenance. Using a sand scoop can also be effective for quick daily cleaning in a naturalistic setup. A mix of chemical-free topsoil with children’s play sand can be used to create a habitat with numerous digging opportunities. Mosses, branches, dried grasses, small rocks, reptile hides and hollows can be used to create a naturalised and enriched habitat. Care must be taken with humidity as respiratory issues are common in damp environments, whereas dry and dusty substrate can cause eye problems. Deciduous leaves and grasses would naturally be used as nesting materials, however pregnant nesting mothers will often opt for a fleece blanket when given the choice, due to its ability to shield their babies from view and prevent them from escaping the nest. Fleece blankets, liners and sleeping bags are the most popular substrate and bedding in the hobby and can be handy during breeding or quarantine to spot unusual fluid colours or traces of blood. These are also handy to provide shelter and protection for the hedgehog during handling. The minimum recommended enclosure size is 4ft by 2ft for both species, however, it could be argued that far larger is needed due to their natural tendency to travel over large distances. The most popular choice is a wooden vivarium, as temperatures are easy to maintain.
Socialisation
Keeping female African pygmy hedgehogs together successfully across the hobby is now common, and rarely results in conflict. However, this is not allowing them to express their natural solitary behaviours. As an induced ovulator, males and females only meet to mate and this can result in injury and conflict, therefore most breeders supervise pairings.
Long Eared Hedgehogs are generally aggressive and territorial, meaning they are best housed individually. Mating should be supervised and sadly, biting injuries to the genitals, ears and torso are common. Mating in the common territory can help to reduce territorial behaviours, and a light-coloured, washable floor covering can be used to quickly spot any blood from fighting injuries.
Posh Pedigrees
Several countries have their own “hedgehog clubs/hedgehog registers” where lineage is tracked for a nominal fee. One of the most common health issues in African pygmy hedgehogs is “wobbly hedgehog syndrome.” It is present in 10% of US hedgehogs but has fewer than 10 reported cases in the UK. It is hereditary and can only be diagnosed with brain dissection, so the diligent tracking of lineages should be encouraged especially considering many hobby breeders will trade internationally. Despite very few cases of “wobbly hedgehog syndrome” being reported in the UK, many of the hedgehogs kept in the UK originate from the US, Poland, the Czech Republic and Thailand. Without lineage records, there is a high likelihood of inbreeding.
There are far more genetic residents from other species of hedgehogs such as the long-eared hedgehog because the main captive populations imported from Egypt were originally kept in Germany and the UK. As the species becomes more popular, individuals are now frequently being exported to the US. As there have been fewer reported cases of genetic issues in this species, fewer keepers are registering and tracking the genetics of their animals. Therefore, inbreeding could cause potential issues in the future. It is vitally important that keepers support studbook initiatives and register their animals wherever possible.
Common Health Problems
Dry skin is easily treated by increasing healthy fats in the animals' diet (fish oils and flaxseed oils) and malacetic conditioner skin spray can calm this ailment.
Worms/intestinal parasites can be an issue, especially due to the increasing popularity of whole/raw meats as food items. Vets often recommend treatment with Panacur but faecal smears should be used to diagnose the problem first.
As captive hedgehogs outlive their wild counterparts, tumours are a significant cause of death. With an 80% malignancy rate reported in the US it is debated whether operating on these, as is common practice, is the correct course of action. Tumours are commonly seen in the mouth and are more difficult to diagnose in the early stages in this location.
Ear infections can often be caused by mites and will show as waxy ears/tatty-edged ears, a clumsy hedgehog or smell. Ear drops and antibiotics can treat this.
Respiratory infections due to incorrect humidity or stress are common, with successful treatments including antibiotics and nebulisation. The tendency to use vivariums mean if extra ventilation is not added the humidity in enclosures can become too high. Therefore many owners choose to add extra vents and monitor humidity as well as temperature.
Natural injuries can cause harm to a pet hedgehog, especially around their delicate eyes, toes and nails. A styptic pencil is a popular item in a hedgehog first aid kit.
Mites are a common problem, due to the combination of live foods and bedding. These are easily treated if both the animal and enclosure are diligently maintained. Using Demetrius Earth for sand baths, or scattering it throughout the enclosure is a popular solution.
