Arizona encompasses vast stretches of Sonoran, Colorado, and Mojave Deserts. It’s scattered with 10,000-foot-high mountains and canyons so grand that they attract visitors from all over the world. Yet, for wildlife enthusiasts, it is the marvellous diversity of reptiles and bird species that makes herping Arizona truly special. We visited this spectacular part of the world with World Life Global Safaris in August 2025 to find and photograph as many reptile species as possible. Here’s what went down…
An Introduction to Herping Arizona
At sea level, Arizona is a hot, dry, and seemingly inhospitable place. Even cities like Phoenix experience brutal temperatures for most of the year. Further north, where elevation increases and amongst the “sky island” mountains of the south, conditions become more temperate and stable. Yet, there are two seasons when the entire state sees a surge of life: during Spring and the Summer monsoons.
Spring is typically the season of choice for birders, while monsoons (when temperatures are at their hottest, but rainfall is at its peak) are preferable for “herpers.” In the summer, a change in wind direction brings tropical storms northward from Mexico. They hit the high elevation mountains of Arizona and drop significant amounts of water onto the landscape. This is why the Sonoran Desert is the wettest and most biodiverse desert on Earth.
Arrival Night: The British Invasion
After arriving in Phoenix, picking up our four-wheel drive, and checking into our hotel, we only had a few hours before sundown. Of course, these hours were not to be wasted. We visited Papago Park, a local outdoor dog-walking area, to find the very impressive Chuckwalla (Sauromalus ater). These large-bodied Iguanids are sun worshippers, being active in temperatures as high as 40 degrees. As the sun was going down, we had a brief window to spot these animals and managed to see one basking on one of the buttes. The black, bulky reptiles were ‘fired up’ and getting close proved to be a challenge.
As the sun set, we turned our attention to the world’s prettiest rattlesnake, the Southwestern “Speck” (Crotalus pyrrhus). The Phoenix population is the most easternly occurring population of these variable snakes, and the “blue” morphs found in the South Mountain Park Reserve are amongst the prettiest. These snakes are far easier to find during the spring months during breeding season. They were not on our target list, but we thought we’d give it a shot.
The Phoenix population of “specks” is sadly under pressure from herping. Being a fragile population that is close to a city, they are susceptible to invasive herping methods. We decided to restrict our search to a quick road cruise, as opposed to the preferred hiking and “flipping” to minimize our impact and maximise our time after the long flight. We didn’t find the specks, but we did find another iconic southwestern reptile.
The Western Banded Gecko (Coleonyx variegatus) is widespread throughout the US and unremarkable for many US herpers. But, for a Brit who grew up reading about these “leopard gecko-esque” lizards, I was very excited to see one. After stopping at a public toilet before the ride home, we stumbled across the most dangerous invertebrate in the southwest: the Arizona Bark Scorpion (Centruroides sculpturatus) – a species with highly toxic venom and capable of delivering a very painful sting. Luckily, only two fatalities have ever been recorded for the species. However, it made the dozens of Black Widow Spiders (Latrodectus sp.) in the area seem positively friendly.
After a few photographs and ticking off a few of the common reptiles and invertebrates, we decided to get back to the room to catch up on sleep before the early start the next morning.
Day One: Montane Madness
In America, they say: “500 years is a long time in the US, and 500 miles is a long distance in the UK. But, 500 years is a short time in the UK, and 500 miles is a short distance in the US.” So, it was time to strap in and take the 207-mile journey from Phoenix to Bisbee in our stride. I could talk about the vast desert landscapes, American iconography, classic hamburgers, and historical mining towns we passed through, but let’s skip to the (second) most fruitful herping night of the trip…
We met a local couple, Chasity and Gonzalo. Living just outside of Tucson, with Sidewinders (Crotalus cerastes), Gila Monsters (Heloderma suspectum), Mojave Rattlesnakes (Crotalus scutulatus) and other reptiles on their doorstep, there weren’t many species of herps that the couple hadn’t seen. But there was one – Arizona’s state reptile, the elusive Ridge-Nosed Rattlesnake (Crotalus w. willardi).
In Arizona, there are three rare and protected species of montane rattlesnake: the Ridge-Nosed, the Banded Rock (C. lepidus klauberi), and the Twin-Spotted (C. pricei). These animals are “no take”, which means the hunting and fishing licenses that permit the handling and photography of most species do not cover these snakes. To encounter the species, one must be lucky enough to find one in the middle of the road. Getting out of the car and photographing the species is not illegal (especially if it means protecting the animal from being hit from other traffic), but chasing it, manipulating it or even disturbing the habitat of the animal in obvious pursuit of it is.
We had initially visited an area just outside of Sonoita in search of coral snakes (Micrurus euryxanthus). Rainfall in the afternoon, combined with a slightly higher elevation, meant that this was a perfect opportunity for finding one of America’s most venomous snakes. Mountain King Snakes (Lampropeltis pyromelana) are also common in that area. None of us expected to find two of the most beautiful snakes in the state crossing the road!
Coming around a bend around 11pm, with Chasity and Gonzalo ahead, we saw brake lights. Excitement built as they jumped out of the car. Clearly, this was not a “common” species. We leapt out of the car and approached them, and saw a tiny, brown snake. It was the iconic Ridge-Nosed Rattlesnake. We kept a good distance and took some photos before some more headlights approached from behind, then more ahead. Border Force asked us if we were okay, and we explained that we had seen a snake. They stopped to chat for a few minutes before a second group of reptile enthusiasts approached from another car. Keen not to disturb the snake, we moved on and let their vehicle protect the snake from oncoming traffic.
We continued driving around the area a little longer. Despite excellent conditions for activity, there wasn’t much moving. On our route home, the vehicle that had stopped previously for the Ridge-Nosed flagged us down from the side of the road. They had spotted a Banded Rock Rattlesnake! The adult female was coiled on the road; her speckling was truly stunning with exceptionally well-defined bands. The Banded Rock Rattlesnake can be found throughout Arizona, New Mexico, Texas, and into Mexico in high-elevation (4,000 – 8,500 feet) regions. Over thousands of years, each population has been isolated from one another in “sky islands”, leading to great variability and subspeciation. Interestingly, Crotalus lepidus is listed as “Least Concern” by the IUCN. It has a large distribution that is mostly inaccessible, and therefore, the species is not threatened. However, because some subspecies and individual populations are vulnerable to exploitation, it is protected in Arizona and heavily protected in Texas. Although it is not protected at all in New Mexico.
They are primarily lizard eaters and largely diurnal during the cooler months. Like many reptiles in the southwest, they change their behaviour during summer to avoid extreme heat and capitalize on the more humid evenings.
Day Two: The King of Herping Arizona
After returning to the old mining town of Bisbee and settling in for the night, we awoke refreshed. In the monsoon season, temperatures become inhospitable for reptiles by about 9AM. This forces herpers to choose between road-cruising late into the night or hiking early in the morning. A group vote meant we skipped a morning of herping in favor of getting a leisurely breakfast and taking a long ride out to the Chiricahua Mountain Range.
The “Chiricahuas” are a mountain range that hosts five of the nine “Life Zones.” As Chiricahua Peak sits 9,759 feet above sea level, the range is home to a staggering amount of diversity, including jaguars, ocelots, black bears and mountain lions. Constant running water creates an oasis for amphibians such as Tiger Salamanders (Ambystoma tigrinum), Canyon Tree Frogs (Hyla arenicolor) and New Mexico Spadefoots (Splea multiplicata) as well as Western Box Turtles (Terrapene ornata).
The elevation in the Chiricahuas gives excellent insight into speciation. For example, some very common species in the lower elevations the very common Sceloporus clarkii is abundant on trees and rocks. Further up, Sceloporus jarrovii becomes more common and in some areas, Sceloporus virgatus are most abundant. Likewise, in the lower elevations, we found the very common Western Diamondback Rattlesnake (Crotalus atrox) but further into the mountains, on a hike through the forest, one of our team almost stepped on an adult male Banded Rock Rattlesnake (Crotalus lepidus klauberi).
This encounter, punctuated with joyous expletives, was amazing. An adult male rock rattlesnake, in ambush, on a textbook rock. Male rock rattlesnakes often exhibit some olive colouration and this huge male was no exception. With a rattle consisting of NINE segments, this impressive animal was fearless. We took plenty of photos without the snake even flinching at our presence. Subtle, beautiful and unbothered, this rattlesnake encounter was even better than the night before.
Driving back to Bisbee, we cruised some roads close to the border town of Douglas. The weather was not on our side this evening. The clouds could be seen in Mexico, but not a single drop of rain reached us. We weren’t expecting to see much, but lo and behold, a Desert Kingsnake (Lampropeltis splendida) turned up!
The Desert Kingsnake is well known for preying on America’s most dangerous snake, the Western Diamondback. The name “King” refers to its diet preference and the name “splendida” refers to the utterly jaw-dropping black and yellow pattern of the snake. In Cochise County, a locality variant of solely black animals exists. While it would be interesting to see this anomaly, the typical form we found was truly beautiful. We took some photographs of the animal, which led to an altercation with the police…
After letting the snake go, we saw blue flashing lights approaching quickly. A police office jumped out of the vehicle with the words “sir, do you have a weapon on you?” As a Brit, this felt unusual. We explained that we were looking for snakes. Apparently, three men on the side of the road, lying on the floor with camera gear, looks unusual to passersby! A report of a man, supposedly having thrown another man to the ground outside of his vehicle, understandably warranted a severe response. Luckily, the police officer understood we were all friends and after a quick background check, pointed us towards some other roads that were supposedly “full of snakes.”
We found a freshly killed Western Diamondback on the road but little else. However, further up the road we discovered our first amphibian of the trip – a Sonoran Desert Toad (Incilius alvarius).
The Sonoran Desert Toad is famous for several reasons; it is the largest native toad in the USA, it is active in dry and harshest environments, and it produces psychedelic poison that causes intense tripping. The hallucinogenic compound is Bufotenin (5-MeO-DMT). It’s powerful stuff. But, despite pop culture rumours, licking the toad will not lead to one to write the next Sgt Pepper’s Lonely Hearts. Instead, the secretions must be extracted and vaporized or smoked. Whilst this is still unusual (although the extracted poison is a listed illegal substance in the US), Bufotenin is consumed for traditional Chinese medicine. Incilius alvarius is not the only species with this poison. Most Bufo species have it, including Bufo bufo – the European common toad – that we find in our own gardens. The difference is that the Sonoran Desert Toad produces it in such large quantities that the DMT component is a sizeable dose. Sadly, extracting poison from toads usually results in killing and drying the toad. Occasionally, the person consuming the poison will also die.
After taking some nice photographs and filming some content, we were careful to dispose of our gloves correctly before getting back into the car at around 12 to begin driving back to our accommodation.
Day Three: Great Expectations
Day three was tough. We hadn’t had any rain for three days. So, it was time to seek out some water. A short hike around Patagonia State Park gave us insight into the sheer versatility of southern Arizona. Harsh deserts turned to forested woodland and eventually, luscious wetland.
It is easy to get tunnel vision when herping. Sitting by the lake, our eyes opened. Dozens of hummingbirds, herons, and red cardinals were whizzing and chirping throughout the forest. To an Arizona local, these may be unremarkable. To us, they are the birds we only saw in natural history books. There are 18 species of hummingbird in Arizona, making it the most species-rich state in the USA. Just like the jaguars, quetzals, peccaries and other Central American species that stretch just into Arizona’s precious landscape, hummingbirds feel almost out of place in the USA. During spring and monsoons, they are most abundant with some species travelling vast distances from South America right up into the states.
Conversely, the red cardinal is almost always contextualized with the contrasting white snow of Canada on nature documentaries. Perhaps we were just ill-informed herpers in a birders’ paradise, but witnessing cardinals in 48℃ deserts was bizarre.
Here, in the very comfortable state of Arizona, where all buildings are air-conditioned, roads are well-maintained, hotels are plush, and the locals don’t bat an eyelid at three dudes with torches wandering through the desert at night, you can find a symphony of life. Species from the furthest reaches of Canada, the mountains of Guatemala, the deserts of Mexico and the jungles of Venezuela all occur in this patch of the world.
Perhaps the most famous Latin American reptile species to occur here is the Mexican vine snake (Oxybelis aenus). Oxybelis is a genus that stretches deep into South America. I have been fortunate enough to find several species from Guatemala to Ecuador, almost always in thick rainforest. It felt unusual that we were looking for this species in dry scrubland in southern Arizona, but as a species that occurs mostly in these dry patches throughout Mexico and into South America (as well as Trinidad and Tobago), it was believable! Our guide, Stuart, had found the species in Patagonia Lake Park before, but unfortunately, we didn’t strike lucky this time.
Later, some rain fell in a nearby town, and we checked the area for movement. Two new amphibian species arrived: the Red-Spotted Toad (Anaxyrus punctatus) and the Great Plains Toad (Anaxyrus punctatus). Both are reasonably common in spring, and it would not be the first time we encountered the species but adding some new species to the list is always enjoyable.
Our bad luck continued on our road cruise of the famous Ruby Road. The less said about this evening, the better. We did find two species of tarantula in the area, as well as some new scorpion species.
Day Four: A Hell of a Hike
We awoke with a whole new determination. Today, we were visiting our friends Jerry and Richard Fife. On the road out of Bisbee we spotted an Arizona Whipsnake (Masticophis billineatus). They are immensely fast creatures, and despite our best efforts, it zipped into the rocky canyon beside us. Luckily, it wasn’t long before we found our next non-rattlesnake species, the iconic Sonoran Gopher Snake (Pituophis catenifer affinis).
Pituophis species get HUGE. While the Sonoran subspecies is not the largest of the group, they are sizable snakes. The adult female was about 4.5 feet long (nothing on the 7.5 feet anomalies that can be found in some areas), but possibly one of the most beautiful snakes I’ve seen. She was in perfect condition, colours glistening in the bright sun. The Gopher Snake’s banding, interspersed with speckles, transitions into different patterns in each third of the body, making for a remarkable reptile.
We found her basking on a path whilst hiking the Sierra Vista Mountain Range. Richard had previously seen Mountain Kingsnakes and Twin-Spotted Rattlesnakes (Crotalus pricei) in this area.
The great thing about altitude, aside from the sheer biodiversity, is the climate. We began our hike at 6AM and ascended the mountain quickly. As the sun rose and temperatures became unbearable at the base, we found ourselves in a cool and sunny pine forest. There was perhaps a 20℃ difference between the amicable summit and the intense lowland desert. The “Sky Islands” are, therefore, the only refuge for hikers and dog walkers during the Arizona summer.
After a visit to the tourist town of Tombstone and a few thirst-quenching ales at Big Nose Kate’s Saloon, it was time to let the sun fall once again. We visited some roads in search of Mojave Rattlesnakes (Crotalus scutulatus) and came away with some sightings of Vinegaroons and Bullfrogs.
Day Five: Rattlesnake Heaven
It had been three days, and not a single rattlesnake. Tensions were building. The rain was sparse. But, on the fifth day, we saw literally hundreds. Now, many of these were Bob Ashley’s personal collection, BUT that evening we struck gold with rattlesnake numbers. Finally, an atrox – Western Diamondback. Then, a Mojave. Then, a whole bunch of newly-born Mojave’s. But, let’s rewind…
On the fifth day, we pulled a few strings and were invited on a backstage tour of the Chiricahua Desert Museum. The Museum, founded in 2009 by Bob and Sheri Ashley, is a true ode to herpetology. It hosts the world’s largest public library on herpetology, an extensive collection of artefacts, natural curiosities and pop culture references to reptiles and also an immense living collection that spans indoor and outdoor enclosures. The museum is the focal point for many herpetological events throughout the year. Bob is one of the organisers of the well-known NARBC shows and author to countless books specializing mostly in rattlesnakes. He and his lead keeper, Zak, breed dozens of varieties of species, subspecies and locality variants of Crotalus and few people on Earth can rival Bob’s extensive knowledge on rattlesnakes. We soaked up this knowledge like a sponge. Not only did this visit contextualize our understanding of the southwest, it blessed us with luck too.
We got our first Western Diamondback (Crotalus atrox) of the trip. She was enormous and, considering the abundance of these animals under normal monsoon conditions, we were surprised they had evaded us for so long. Western Diamondbacks are responsible for the most casualties from snakebite in the USA. They are widely distributed and resilient to habitat alteration, meaning they often occur in people’s gardens. For reference, we managed to find three in one campsite later in the trip!
Later, we encountered an adult Mojave Rattlesnake (Crotalus scutulatus). This thing was fiery! Mojave rattlesnakes have some of the most toxic venom of any rattlesnake (rivals with C. tigris), but because they are more selective with their preferred habitat, years of isolation have caused each population to evolve a different venom profile. There are four distinct categories of venom, based on the location of the snake. Furthermore, animals that live in similar environments to competitor species (C. atrox for central Arizona and C. oreganus for western populations) also have similar venom profiles to those of such species, suggesting that environmental factors are just as influential as genetics.
The Mojave rattlesnake is very similar in appearance to the Great Plains rattlesnake (C. viridis), but the Great Plains does not occur west of Douglas. As we were in McNeal, all three of the “Mojaves” we encountered that night must have been C. scutulatus.
As the night drew later and we considered heading home, we kept noticing small “sticks” on the road. The herper’s curse is always calling out something suspicious, only to be met with a stick, knowing the whole time that a dozen snakes had probably evaded you. Well, we noticed a few small, suspicious-looking objects until one of them had a rattle on it. A newly-born Mojave rattlesnake! The high-contrast patterns were stunning. We jumped out of the car to move it from the road, and as if scripted, it hit the classic “rattlesnake pose.” I had witnessed C. ruber do this on many occasions, but none of the rattlesnakes we saw in Arizona seemed to do it. However, the instincts of this fresh-faced baby caused it to rise up, rattle relentlessly, and hold its ground. The phrase “don’t tread on me” sprang to mind. When you’re smaller than the sole of a boot, it shouldn’t have been a surprise!
Day 6: Tiger Rattlesnake Galore
On our sixth day, we moved to a new location: Green Valley. This unusual and somewhat unremarkable town in southern Arizona is perfectly situated for herping. It is framed by towering mountains that are open to the public 24/7, with paved roads and frequent running water. The spacious and luxurious Airbnb we had also helped make this part of the trip particularly comfortable.
Mount Hopkins Road is another famous herping location. It ascends thousands of feet in elevation. We drove for a considerable distance, finding nothing, until, as if by magic, four Tiger Rattlesnakes! Four within about 100 meters. The tiger rattlesnake was one of my top targets. Not only are they beautifully patterned and intensely toxic, but they also make for a wonderful macro photo. Their speckling is highly variable, with their tiny heads and enormous eyes also shrouded in specks. Visually, this makes them very interesting.
Whilst the Tiger Rattlesnake has (drop for drop) the most potent venom, their tiny head sports equally small venom glands. Bites are life-threatening. However, the venom yield balances the potential danger that this snake poses.
On this evening, we also saw a skunk and a coyote. American audiences may be a little underwhelmed by this, but we thought it was amazing.
Day Seven: A New Way of Herping
On the seventh day, tragedy struck. The herpers nightmare. When a number one top target is spotted by someone else. Our closest encounter Phrynosoma!
We had embarked on a hike up Mount Wrightson, one of the highest mountains in the area, with hopes of seeing a Black Bear. Truthfully, it was the coolest climate in the area to hike and with chances of stumbling across a Twin-Spotted Rattlesnake (Crotalus pricei), it was a worthy investment of our time. Neither species turned up, but it was perhaps my favourite hike of the entire trip.
On the hottest day of the year in Tucson, we sat above the clouds, cool and refreshed. The pine forest was magical and the tranquility was calming. One of the group decided against the hike (which would take several hours) and decided to go back to car park. Whilst sat in the car catching up on emails, he spotted “a bearded dragon looking brown lizard with spikes.” It was, undeniably, a regal horned lizard (Phrynosoma platyrinos). We even found the ant nest that it was feeding from and the burrow that it went down. Oh well, these things happen and after a four-hour hike, an ice cream felt like a worthy alternative.
That evening we visited a secret location in search of the Arizona Black Rattlesnake (Crotalus cerberus). Local herpers have great difficulty with this species. It is montane, likes cooler temperatures (and thus only appears very late at night in summer) and is reasonably elusive. We met up with Chasity and Gonzalo and hit their spot. Whilst we waited we strolled around the desert and found lots of wandering tarantulas, a Blue Death Feigning Beetle (a species becoming very popular in the pet trade) and a juvenile Lesser Earless Dragon (Holbrookia maculata). We also found a Sceloporus sp. with an orange throat, which we believe was S. clarkii in a resting colouration.
When Chasity and Gonzalo arrived, the most insane night of herping pursued. Not because of success (although we did get two species of rattlesnake across 4 individuals), but because Gonzalo was towing a huge homemade dune buggy. He had built the ultimate “herping mobile”, close to the ground, with almost 360 degree vision and headlights that covered all angles on the road. In reality, I think he just wanted to give his pride and joy a spin on the perfect dirt tracks, but I’m sure it would have had some benefit to the herping!
After zipping through the mountains and being approached by hunters with AR15 rifles and politely declining a beer and a (legal in Arizona) joint, we continued our search for rattlesnakes. Two diamondbacks, two Mojaves. Nothing new, but memories that I will keep for a lifetime.
Part Two Coming Soon. Spoiler alert, we saw the Southwest’s most amazing lizard!
