Leopard geckos are the second most popular lizard in captivity. They are hardy, docile and objectively very cute. This guide will explain everything you need to know about leopard geckos, from their scientific taxonomy to their captive care. There is something here for everyone…
Natural History
There are seven distinct species belonging to the Eublepharis genus. The common names for these animals will differ across the world, but essentially, this means there are five different species of leopard gecko. The most popular leopard gecko worldwide is Eublepharis macularius. This species has several recognised subspecies, each from different locales with slightly different characteristics.
Leopard geckos come from a vast area stretching from Iran to India, comprised of countless habitats and biomes, which contributes to their hardiness in captivity. Furthermore, the temperatures and humidity across these biomes can vary massively, with some species of leopard gecko subject to monsoon rains. However, in captivity we should be aiming to provide a safe environment without these extremes and instead keep steady temperatures, with only slight variations (we’ll get onto this later).
Just because a species can tolerate basic conditions, does not mean that this species is thriving. Here, there is a lot of debate around what a leopard gecko really needs. This guide is focused on creating a natural environment for the lizard. Although a basic set up may hold many benefits for the keeper, understanding how to create a slice of the arid mountains of West Asia will undoubtedly give your animal the most enriched life.
Food and Nutrition
Leopard geckos are insectivorous meaning they only eat insects. Adults will need feeding about twice a week, whilst juveniles can benefit from more frequent feedings of less insects. Providing a varied diet is key. A staple diet of crickets or locust, supplemented with calci-worms, silkworms, mealworms, morioworms, small dubia roaches is perfect. Adults may also be given an occasional pinkie mouse, but no more than twice a year. In the wild, leopard geckos tend to hunt soft bodied prey such as caterpillars and worms following seasonal rains but will also eat a good number of grasshoppers. They do this primarily at dusk and dawn, though it has been reported that they will actively hunt all night.
Insects should also be gut-loaded before being fed to the animal. ‘Gut-loading’ is just feeding the insects a highly nutritious diet before they are fed to the animal. It ensures every insect is as nutritious as possible and is the best way of keeping your animal healthy, but is often overlooked or underestimated. Gut-loading formulas are inexpensive and provide the best nutrients, but if a keeper is running low, or apprehensive of feeding the bugs, just providing some fresh vegetables will help support the insect and build their nutrient profile slightly.
Most importantly, all foods should be dusted with a calcium and vitamin supplement. Calcium is a mineral that is necessary for life. As well as a plethora of blood and muscular benefits, calcium is most famous for helping bones grow strong. In addition to calcium, reptiles will also ingest many other essential minerals and vitamins. One often overlooked mineral is magnesium, which is essential for bone development, regulating muscle and nerve function, blood sugar levels, blood pressure and making protein.
UVB radiation from the sun allows for vitamin D synthesis which then helps to absorb the calcium for the development of healthy bones. In the wild, most reptiles would take in calcium within their natural diet or feeding habits and sunlight would provide adequate UVB radiation. Being nocturnal, leopard geckos are excellent at synthesising calcium into vitamin D, using only a very small amount of UVB radiation.
Things to look out for: A good balance of calcium and magnesium, to help the synthesis of vitamin D3. If you are providing high levels of UVB, added D3 is not necessary even though some supplements provide it. Carotenoids are a great way of improving colouration in reptiles and found in some multi-vitamin supplements. Transparency of ingredients can sometimes be a good indicator of current research-based formulas. Reptivite comes in with D3 and without D3, Vit-a-min and Nutrirep are brilliant all-rounders, Nutrobal and ProRep Calci-Dust are also extremely high in calcium.
Water: Although leopard geckos will get some moisture from their food, a shallow water dish containing fresh water should be provided and changed daily.
Temperature and Humidity
In any exotics keeping, gradients and contrast is generally a good thing. Providing choice is key, which is why in leopard gecko enclosures we aim to provide a warm hide, a cool hide, and a humid hide as well as a warm end and a cool end and a basking spot. By fulfilling all of these criteria, the lizard has options and can warm up and cool down as they please.
Temperatures: Up to 38°C hot spot in the warm end. The ambient temperature should be closer to 30°C and drop off in the cool end. This is much easier to achieve in a larger vivarium. Temperatures can drop into the low 20s at night.
Not all heat was created equal. We should be aiming to provide a full spectrum of infrared heat, which includes IR-A, IR-B and IR-C. A full guide to heating can be found on the Exotics Keeper website, but essentially, we want to recreate the heat from the sun. Simply put, this should come from above in the form of a lamp and/or heat emitter and should be able to penetrate the skin with infrared (the feeling you get when you place your own skin in direct sunlight). Incandescent bulbs are great at providing lots of visible light, as well as IR-A and a small amount of IR-B and IR-C. In a wooden vivarium, this should be the primary heat source. Although, an infrared heat projector can also be used to stretch the heat over a larger enclosure and provide extra IR-B and IR-C. These should always be used in conjunction with a thermostat and a UVB emitting light source (we’ll get onto that later).
Heating equipment: An incandescent spot bulb will provide a basking spot throughout the day which should reach the desired 33-38°C. However, a UV light source is also a priority and can be provided in the form of a Ferguson Zone 1 T5, T8 or compact bulb. Please note, there are multiple ways to achieve the correct heating set up. When in doubt, ask your local reptile store.
Thermostats – Always use a thermostat to control temperatures. This is the most important safeguarding we can do to ensure the safety of our animal as it protects them from extreme heat. Using heating equipment without a good quality thermostat is also serious fire risk.
Coming from arid locations, leopard geckos require relatively low humidity, but by spraying the enclosure lightly twice a week, we can provide natural fluctuations. Leopard geckos should also be provided with a ‘humid hide’. This is simply a hide with some moss, or Bio Life substrate inside, that is kept moist and allows the animal to increase and lower the humidity in their immediate environment. It is crucial in helping the lizard shed its skin.
Humidity: 40%
Lighting
There are only a handful of species which cause controversy around the provision of UVB lighting and one of them is the leopard gecko. It is true this species is crepuscular (although captive animals are now widely considered ‘cathemeral’ meaning sporadic behaviour patterns), extremely good at absorbing at synthesising D3 and has been kept successfully with dietary D3 for years, however the provision of UVB unlocks a new tier of welfare for the animal. When we provide UV (alongside IR and visible light) we are providing sunlight. Without UV, you are keeping your animal in perpetual darkness, affecting their circadian rhythm and various other biological functions. Only a very small amount of UV needs to be provided for leopard geckos, so a Zone 1 tube or lamp is perfect (Zone 2 if projecting through a mesh barrier or you can use a reflector).
UVA: Most reptiles have an extra retinal cone associated with colour vision. This fourth cone is sensitive to UVA, which allows them to perceive more colour than we do. This is thought to be associated with prey and mate detection – especially in species with vibrant skin pigmentations. Therefore, UV lighting needs to be provided if reptiles are to have access to their full spectrum of vision.
UVB: This is an important component in biology on Earth. Its main function is to facilitate the production of vitamin D in animals, but also increases pigment production, strengthens the skin barrier and, in humans, improves our mood. Of course, too much is harmful, but it is still essential to any animal that is exposed to sunlight.
Positioning the light fixture is crucial to getting this part right. The level of UVB and UVA received by the animal will vary depending on the distance from the fixture. Never move the light closer to the animal, instead place décor that allows the animal to get closer to the light.
T8 and T5 tubes are the preferred method of providing UV, as they produce a large spread of UVB whilst producing minimal heat. Being a smaller lizard, a compact bulb may also be suitable, but these are generally created for higher outputs than necessary.
T8 or T5? T8s are thicker (0.8 inches in diameter) and T5s are thinner (0.5 inches in diameter). Both can provide good levels of UVB for your gecko if used correctly. T5s provide stronger UVB and project further into the vivarium. T8s are excellent too, but the animal should be able to get closer (around 30cm away) to the tube, as it does not project as far. Both should be used with a reflector.
All options have a limited life span and over time the levels of UVB being produced will diminish. After 6-12 months, even if a bulb is producing visible light, it may no longer be projecting UVB. If in doubt, take your lamp to your local reptile retailer. They will have a UV meter in store and will be able to test the output.
Enclosure Setup & Enrichment
In the wild leopard geckos inhabit a wide range of environments, often utilising manmade structures to hide. Muhammad Sharif Khan published a paper in 2009 detailing some of the key wild observations he had made of leopard geckos (E. macularius) in Pakistan. In the paper he explains “the gecko specifically inhabits holes and crevices in stony mixed gravel terrain… that extends into the adjacent mudflats where it hunts insects and caterpillars in sparce grass and bushes in mesic to xeric sub mountain conditions.” Whilst this gives us a great idea of the type of enclosure we should create, there are limitations to captivity.
For example, in the wild, several geckos will inhabit the same cracks and crevices in loose colonies. These will be in underground holes and crevices that are organised into resting places and a lavatory (keepers will notice how their own gecko will pick a designated corner of the enclosure to use as a toilet). Whilst they rest here together, territorial disputes are extremely common. There will always be a dominant male in the group, with young rivals at a serious risk of violent disputes. This is something we should avoid by keeping a single individual. Experienced keepers may keep females together, but this should only be reserved for those who can identify problematic behaviours instantly.
Mohammed continues: “Almost all geckos at the site come out as the sun sets and are scattered to forage individually, returning to the site one-by-one just before dawn. However, in forested sites they become semi-arboreal, (and may climb several feet) hiding beneath loose tree bark… In urban areas leopard geckos regularly colonise man-made structures… one of the favourite urban habitats are around water pipes where leaks provide moisture to the soil to keep humidity, while gaps in fillings around pipes provide resting and hideout places.”
Minimum enclosure size (by AAL regulations): 2 X 1 X 1 feet (60cm X 30cm X 30cm). Although bigger is always better and 4 x 2 x 2 feet (121cm X 62.5cm X 62.5cm) enclosure will provide a brilliant forever-home.
These habitats are usually in areas that are comprised of some sand, but mostly gravel and soil. They inhabit rocky mountainous areas and often digs burrows. Providing a natural substrate is very important to ensuring high welfare standards and keeping your animal entertained and happy. Historically, keepers would use paper towels or carpets to prevent the animal eating substrate, a process known as ‘impaction’. We now know that leopard geckos usually only become impacted when they are lacking in vitamin D3 (usually, because of bad supplements or no UVB light source). If you have a perfect set up that mimics wild sunlight and a good diet, providing natural substrate like ProRep Leo Life is the best choice.
Substrate choice: Pro Rep Leo Life most closely resembles the natural habitat of this species. However, other desert-based substrates are available. Try to provide a few inches of depth to allow the animal to dig. Slate and rock surfaces are also great additions, can be easily cleaned and will provide some variation in the enclosure.
Décor should be chosen and positioned in such a way that the gecko has choice to regulate their body temperature and exposure to UV. Providing choice is the best way to ensure you are a good Exotics Keeper.
Ensure your décor provides the following opportunities
- A basking spot that reaches up to 38°C but does not exceed a UVI output of 1.4.
- Several hides and shaded areas across the enclosure. You can provide hides and shaded areas using artificial plants, natural woods and resin décor.
- A humid hide or box, where the humidity is much higher than the rest of the enclosure.
- Some open areas to allow the gecko to dig. If this is in a corner, your gecko may allocate this space as the toilet, making it easier to spot clean.
- Ensure all heating equipment has an appropriate guard and position décor so the animal cannot burn themselves on the bulb – this can be fatal.
A setup does not have to look fancy to achieve these basic requirements as there are lots of ways to replicate a natural habitat. It is also possible to upgrade your enclosure, once you feel comfortable that you are providing all these basic requirements. Speak to your local shop for more information.
Handling and Maintenance
Leopard geckos are some of the most docile and friendly reptiles in the hobby and this is one of their greatest appeals. If you are going to handle your gecko, try to do this over a soft surface or close to the ground. All lizards can be fast, especially youngsters. Just using some common sense and trying not to have pre-conceived ideas about the animal’s temperament can help prevent a trip to the vets if something does go wrong.
Cleaning is quite straightforward. Do a visual scan of the enclosure before each feed. If you notice that there is some uneaten food, dead insects, or faeces in the enclosure, remove it immediately. Learning how much your lizard eats and how frequently will help you prepare for this.
Cleaning: Spot clean every day. Remove substrate and décor to wash in reptile-safe disinfectant every couple of weeks.
General Health
A healthy leopard gecko should be active and responsive, but do remember that these are crepuscular animals, so they will spend much of the day hidden. Observing your gecko hunt during feeding times is a great way to gauge their activity levels.
Healthy weight: Roughly 60g – 80g but this varies massively between individuals. There should be visible muscle on the limbs, a tail that is no fatter than the animal’s neck and there should be no fat pads on the back of the head.
Some parasites are completely normal for reptiles, but some can cause health complications. The best way to ensure overall health is to observe the animals’ behaviour and appearance. If in doubt, visit a vet as soon as possible.
Parasites: Look out for weight loss, lethargy, or diarrhoea. If symptoms are present, visit the vet ASAP. Regularly check skin and enclosure for mites and ticks and ask a veterinarian to remove them if present.
Previously, metabolic bone disease (MBD) was a huge problem for many reptiles. Although leopard geckos were not as susceptible as other species due to their low UVB requirements, a lack of supplementation and proper nutrition did cause issues. Now, ensuring a good quality calcium and multivitamin should protect your animal. Try to make sure these are replaced every few months and kept away from direct sunlight as this will affect the potency of the elements.
Metabolic bone disease: Prevent by providing appropriate UVB and supplements. Symptoms include: swellings, fragile bones, difficulty walking, fractures.
Respiratory infections are common amongst lizards from arid environments. This is usually caused by an unsuitable enclosure. If the humidity is too high, temperature too cold, conditions too dirty or the enclosure is too crowded, respiratory infections may occur and are usually caused by bacteria, fungi, or viruses.
Respiratory infections: Prevent by regular checks of cleanliness, temperature and humidity. Be thorough with all checks, recording data from several locations within the enclosure. Continue to be disciplined with this, creating a personal schedule to ensure you are a responsible exotics keeper. Symptoms include; unnatural breathing, discharge from eyes and nose, nasal bubbles and loss of appetite.
Dyscecdisis is the abnormal detachment of dead outer skin. It is caused by similar environmental conditions to respiratory infections but can be combatted by providing a moist hide, especially during shedding times. A full shed should only take a few hours, so having excess skin attached to the animal for an elongated period of time is a sign that something is not right. Skin can be detached using tweezers, but keepers should provide all the necessary components (moist hide, abrasive surface, good nutrition etc) before trying to remove skin themselves. This may also cause stress to the animal, so asking a vet to assess the situation first is recommended.